Pata de Perro - The Design Lover's Guide to Mexico City - La Edicion Del Guero
I have only been to Mexico city a handful of times beginning in late October of 2021. I barely know the city, but it is one of my favorites in the world from what I have seen so far.
My first visit was to attend the last week of Design Week Mexico 2021 which is an event that has morphed from a single week into a month long event. I highly recommend it as the most important design related expo throughout Mexico. This year is 12Oct - 13Nov, and they have just posted much more detailed information on the website.
On my second visit a good friend in Guadalajara sent me this Kelly Wearstler article in Departures for recommendations, and that is were I started my journey into exploring the places and spaces of Ciudad de Mexico. This was a great introduction. I have added my recommendations for CDMX below. I am no expert on the city, but these are all places me or my team have personally been to.
Museums
At 150+ to date, Mexico City has more museums than any other city in the world. Although this never happens because Mexico often has alternative plans from the ones you thought you had, I try to visit one museum a day when I am visiting.
Museo de Arte Popular
Revillagigedo 11, Colonia Centro, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06050 Ciudad de México, CDMX
This is my favorite museum that I have been to in Mexico city so far. Although it might not be considered high art, you like what you like. The museum has an extensive collection of traditional arts and crafts from throughout Mexico. I’ve grown such a love of these beautiful objects, it was amazing to see some of the highest quality pieces and antique pieces where you could see and imagine the evolution of the craft throughout the years.
I’m especially fond of the alebrijes from Oaxaca and animales de lana from Chiapas, but also love the ceramics from Tonala, Tree of Lifes, and our love and obsession of skeletons and the dead.
Museo de Arte Moderno
Av. Paseo de la Reforma s/n, Bosque de Chapultepec I Secc, Miguel Hidalgo, 11100 Ciudad de México, CDMX
*Direcciones del Guero al museo: Walk around in a circle, loop around the path of vendors, stop by the bathroom, take a left at the chainlink fence, and follow to the parking lot. Entrance is straight ahead. (Always look like you know where you are going until you find your destination.)
With all that work trying to find the damn entrance and a friend waiting to centro for food and drinks, I didn’t have a ton of time - Just follow your instinct, permanent collection then this door looks good. The Daniel Lezama, Vertigos de mediodia exhibit is absolutely out of this world. Not something I would take my parents to but sometimes when you just wander you run into the most unexpected things.
The permanent collection is small to medium sized but extremely well curated and worth the visit.
Museo Jumex
https://www.fundacionjumex.org/
Blvd. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Granada, Miguel Hidalgo, 11520 Ciudad de México, CDMX
My first favorite museum in Ciudad de Mexico. This is the style of art and museum I am drawn to. Filled with modern, progressive, and experimental art, I would most compare Museo Jumex to museums like SFMOMA and The Broad.
Museo Tamayo Arte Contemporáneo
http://www.museotamayo.org/
Av. Paseo de la Reforma 51, Polanco, Bosque de Chapultepec I Secc, Miguel Hidalgo, 11580 Ciudad de México, CDMX
I love rainbows and absolutely hate clowns, but being comfortable with being uncomfortable has been a constant practice of my adult life. Vocabulario de la Soledad by Ugo Rondinone is easily one of the most disturbing I’ve experienced. English summary of the expositions since it will be closing 04Sep2022.
Plus I always love a street art nod to fine art especially “Fountain (Fuente)” by greats like Marcel Duchamp. And a bathroom selfie.
Furniture Stores
I have recently become very interested in purchasing a couple of pieces of Mid Century modern furniture for my new apartment in Ladron de Guevara in Guadalajara. Major areas of Guadalajara were developed in the 1950s and 60s. I figured it would be easy to find vintage stores that sell the furniture; however, everytime I asked a friend or business contact where I might find this type of store they either looked at me like it was the oddest question they’ve ever been asked or suggested West Elm. The two best sources I have found are in my favorite areas on CDMX.
Trouvé
Avenida Álvaro Obregón 186, Bis B, Roma Nte., 06700 Ciudad de México
Trouvé, located in Roma Norte, is a more typical vintage shop like you would find in the US. It has an amazing mix of furniture from the 50s, 60s, and 70s. It’s not as small as it looks from how packed it is with rare finds. There are no marked prices, but the owners and staff are very helpful and friendly to chat with. They currently have a Knoll Saarinen Oval Dining table that I would love for my apartment but think it might be a bit too large. Always worth a look when you are in the area.
Decada
Calle Dr Erazo 172, Doctores, Cuauhtémoc, 06720 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Just when you think you are getting your pronunciation down, you run into a word that a security guard has to teach you how to pronounce. Década is an immaculately curated collection of nearly mint Mid Century modern furniture. They specialize in wooden casegoods, seating, dining furniture and desks. The store can be a bit difficult to locate as it is in an industrial type building with several other offices, stores, and cafeterias including La Metropolitana I have yet to explore. Ring the bell at the door and ask the guard for ‘DE-cada’.
*When I first moved to Guadalajara in 2019, a furniture store owner in Tonala, made me yell the word tarjeta several times until I had it down. The word stuck from that moment on, and it taught me how to be more forceful with my speech. Spanish is a much louder language than English can be.
Food and Drink
Balcón del Zócalo
https://www.balcondelzocalo.com/
Av. 5 de Mayo 61, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Located in Hotel Zócalo Central
Invited for drinks by a friend visiting for Pride. You couldn’t have a better view of the festivities in Zócalo Square. Typical for Mexico, the parade barely made it out of Zona Rosa and we arrived a bit too early for things to reach their peak. Maybe it was the day, the location, or the company, but the Cesar Salad was probably the best I’ve ever had. The Blue Crab pasta was tasty but unremarkable.
Cafe Nin
Havre 73, Juárez, Cuauhtémoc, 06600 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Please don’t try this on Sundays. Mexicans are just as happy to wait in lines for food and people are in San Francisco. I returned on Monday. The neighborhood and Nin building are absolutely gorgeous. I had a simple but delicious roast beef sandwich, Americano, green juice, and kombucha.
Cafe Nin
Hotels
Umbral, Curio Collection by Hilton
https://www.hotelumbral.com/
Booking.com link for Forrest Glover Design
https://www.booking.com/hotel/mx/umbral-curio-collection-by-hilton.en-us.html?aid=7978968
C. de Venustiano Carranza 69, Centro Histórico de la Cdad. de México, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, 06000 Ciudad de México, CDMX
The Umbral is by far my favorite hotel in Mexico City and possibly my current favorite in the world. Like Hotel Demetria in Guadalajara, this hotel broke my notions of what contemporary design could be. Located 2 blocks walking from Plaza Zócalo, Umbral is in the perfect location when visiting for festivities like Dia de los Muertos and Pride. After reading information on their website, it is clear that the designers were very deliberate in their playful use with light and dark, shadows and sheer draperies. The hotel has a pleasantly, ghostly feeling to the communal spaces. The contrasts within are accentuated with the unusual pale pink and black design throughout. Even many of the suites have pitch dark front offices or foyers that open into bright, contemporary bedrooms through brass lined doorways. A happy accident for this to be my first hotel stay in CDMX.
The front lobby staff were extremely curious and friendly. One of my favorite parts of living in Mexico as an extranjero is the curiosity it provokes and people’s openness to ask questions, share stories and practice their English or chat in broken Spanish. The bellboy from Morocco spoke 7 languages and gave me a quick and dirty lesson on the official rules of how to turn my temporary residency into Mexican citizenship.
MX Grand Suites
https://www.mxgrandsuites.mx/
Booking.com link for Forrest Glover Design
C. Río Lerma 275, Cuauhtémoc, 06500 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Architecture
Not my forte but definitely enjoy architecture and buildings
Avenida Paseo de la Reforma
Avenida Paseo de la Reforma, Juárez, Ciudad de México, CDMX
Prepared to feel small in the best way possible. The creativity and size of some of this Mexican architecture is absolutely breathtaking. Torre Reforma is my absolute favorite for personal and aesthetic reasons. The incorporation of la casona at the bottom of the structure is one of my favorite examples of how one can embrace one’s history while building towards the future. Other personal standouts are Torre BBVA and Chapultapec Uno. Don’t miss The Angel of Independence, at night if possible.
Zócalo
Parque México, Hipódromo
Major disappointments
La Casa Azul, Museo Frida Kahlo
https://www.museofridakahlo.org.mx/
Londres 247, Del Carmen, Coyoacán, 04100 Ciudad de México, CDMX
I know more than one person that is going to be annoyed at this anti-recommendation. Overrated, overcrowded, and in my opinion lacking in much additional history or curiosities about Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, both of whom I like and respect. There was an interesting exposition of some of Frida’s dresses and clothing. Besides this, I thought it was somewhat a tourist trap. I adored going out to Coyoacán, a stunning area of Ciudad de Mexico and a complete surprise.